Local Camping
On the way back to Arusha, the truck develops two problems. The flat tire can be fixed. The head gasket cannot. Christian reports that we are unlikely to make it as far as our intended campsite. Given that the nearest campsite has been claimed by lions, he selects a ‘local campsite’ between the two. We stop at dusk to collect firewood.
The local campsite is an open space adjacent to a Maasai village. The village chief drops by to visit. He is city-educated but prefers the traditional life. He offers us a tour of the village. I express a concern that a late-hour visit may inconvenience the villagers but he dismisses it with a laugh. He is the chief – they must entertain his guests at any hour.
A Maasai village, or boma, consists of a number of huts - one for each adult woman - and a central livestock pen. An outer fence of thorn-studded acacia branches protects the settlement from lions and elephants and hence lesser creatures as well.
With our group in tow, the chief barges into various huts.
Cattle are central to the Maasai way of life. After some halting conversation in one hut, the residents offer the opportunity to try some curdled milk. Noelle and I race to claim that vegetarianism rules out our participation. Dave cannot tell a lie. Christian helps him out with two discreet gulps.
Huts have a fireplace but not chimney. This design flaw ensures that we do not spend too long in any one shelter.
At the conclusion of our visit, the chief offers two warriors to watch over our camp for the night. I express the concern that this may subject the men to a long cold night but he dismisses it with a laugh. He is the chief – they must do as he says at all times.
In the morning, our protectors are rewarded for their trouble with the rather sorry prize of leftover toast and sugar.
The local campsite is an open space adjacent to a Maasai village. The village chief drops by to visit. He is city-educated but prefers the traditional life. He offers us a tour of the village. I express a concern that a late-hour visit may inconvenience the villagers but he dismisses it with a laugh. He is the chief – they must entertain his guests at any hour.
A Maasai village, or boma, consists of a number of huts - one for each adult woman - and a central livestock pen. An outer fence of thorn-studded acacia branches protects the settlement from lions and elephants and hence lesser creatures as well.
With our group in tow, the chief barges into various huts.
Cattle are central to the Maasai way of life. After some halting conversation in one hut, the residents offer the opportunity to try some curdled milk. Noelle and I race to claim that vegetarianism rules out our participation. Dave cannot tell a lie. Christian helps him out with two discreet gulps.
Huts have a fireplace but not chimney. This design flaw ensures that we do not spend too long in any one shelter.
At the conclusion of our visit, the chief offers two warriors to watch over our camp for the night. I express the concern that this may subject the men to a long cold night but he dismisses it with a laugh. He is the chief – they must do as he says at all times.
In the morning, our protectors are rewarded for their trouble with the rather sorry prize of leftover toast and sugar.
posted by Steve at 1:22 PM
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