Ngorongoro

Christian meets me at the Kilimanjaro airport and drives me to Arusha. Dave and Noelle have already arrived. They offer me warm greetings, but to my dismay, no presents. The tour operator, Achmed, runs us through the itinerary for our safari at a pace that allows him to consume three beers.

We are to start with a three day hike to through the Ngoronoro Conservation Area and then will make a midnight assault on Ol Doinyo Lengai, a three-thousand metre volcano in the Great Rift Valley.

Nobody knows why it called the Great Rift Valley. Historians have been disputing the issue for decades.

Christian drives us into the park. The road is steep and muddy and a glance down the hillside reveals that it has recently claimed a truck fully laden with cargo. We meet Makamero, our guide. He is joined by Amisi, our cook, and two porters who handle the team of donkeys that carry our supplies.

The hike is rainy but pleasant. The route takes us past the Empakai Crater, along hilltop ridges, past Maasai bomas, and through forested valleys. Once at Lake Natron, we meet Bura who will guide us on our Lengai attempt.